A miracle following WWII is the unbelievable growth and prosperity of South Korea, and the contrast with their archaic neighbor to the north. This contrast is visible from satellite images. Two visits to Pusan shows the Pusan of today is nothing like its predecessor in 1954. At the Busan Tower one surprising tradition was the locking of love notes on the chain-link fence around this local attraction. The other surprise, beyond the modern city, was the extensive fish market which was so large we got separated from our tour group.